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PCB 326298 "replica"

  • Hallo Alle


    Ich brauche ein paar Meinungen.


    Ich habe ein 326298 Board von einem "Silverlabel". Nur der board. Keine Chips



    Wie viel Gebrauch wird es sein, wenn ich versuchte, eine Replika zu erstellen?


    Ich habe schon den Schema in Eagle und die meisten Komponenten in einer Stückliste



    Deutsch ist nicht meine Muttersprache, aber ich hoffe, Sie bekommen die Idee

  • So far i just thought that i would start with the first board as i assume that much of the schematic will be the same for all the boards


    The nice thing with eagle is that the schematic dictate the board connections, so once you have that correct you can start placing the components and then connecting them


    What i did the with board i have is to take everything off and use compressed air to get the molten solder out of all the holes. Then i spent a great amount of time to clean the board. Mostly using alcohol but for some of the very old dirt i had to use acetone


    But before i started all of this i took at lot of pictures so i can see what goes where


    i plan to import a picture of the board in eagle and use that to draw the connections so that the components are placed precise the same and that the connections are also in the same place


    everything will be published here: https://github.com/boelle/C64-Schematics-Boards


    so far its just pictures and the eagle schematic. but there are also a txt file with a link to the BOM. and copies of what schematic in the programmers manual.


    but most of the work was done by Ruud. I have just double and tripple checked his work and adjusted a few things



    other boards... hmm... why not if someone has a board i can use as a template... but let me get this one done first... since its a big board i will have to pay for a months subscription of eagle so i can go bigger than 100*80mm

  • Don't subscribe Eagle! If you don't own or have legal access to an old permanent Professional license, use another program (e.g. Kicad). I'm an Eagle user, too, but I absolutely don't agree with the licensing politics of Autodesk. Don't support them and make yourself dependent from Autodesk. You can't trust any announcements of that company, everything they promised (Eagle never goes to subscription model...) it's worth nothing. Your a captive of Autodesk, if you want to use your own work in future, they can rise the price to every amount they want.

  • I will go with eagle as the schematic is already done. And i will only support them for a month.


    After that they dont get money from me :-D


    But PLEASE let us keep on topic and not turn this in to a religion like war. ie. this post was not meant to be about what program to use and why. We each belive in our version of the invisble man in the sky :-D

  • I will


    I'm also building a 3d printer and that will have to be done first


    At some point i will need help to figure the values of the last few bits on the BOM


    one of them are the line filter at the power input. some say just skip it and put in jumper but then there would not be much "replica" about it


    I do have one since it was on the board when i got it, but i have no clue about its value.


  • Wie viel Gebrauch wird es sein, wenn ich versuchte, eine Replika zu erstellen?


    IMHO this doesn't make much sense: The board will not be interesting for collectors who want "the real thing".


    Furthermore it's one of the first revisions of the board (there are actually at least 4 different revisions known of 326298 board: Rev.6, A, B and C!)
    which shows that's it needed quote a few revisions to get it working correctly.


    Next problem: The chips for the PLL in the Video section are hard to get nowadays.


    Better go for a newer board like 250425 or 250466...

  • "Better go for a newer board like 250425 or 250466..."


    i will get to those also, but i wanted to start from the beginning or close to the beginning


    The 326298 i have is a rev A


    My reason for starting so far back is to try and catch the difference and learn/figure why the changes where made. So a great deal of it was the learning part of it



    Of course collectors will want to the real thing. And some will just go for the "reloaded". My aim was to learn and at the same time publish everything so that people can make one if they want to


    But also this work could be used as a modern reference tool as every track and connection will be checked many times over

  • Personally, although I am not at all a hardware guy, I like this project. The day will come, that original hardware is absolutely unavailable. Then we will be happy to have a 100% compatible replacement in the original housing.


    But thats just my 2 cents.


    E D I T


    Once it is 100% working and affordable, I'll buy one as replacement.

  • you could say that


    The question in you head is proberly: "Why does he spend so much time on this?"


    The answer is simple, i'm homegoing and have applied for a pension. At the age of 40 i have plenty on time on my hands and need to keep myself "in gear" or i would go insane


    I'm sure there are more challenging projects than just producing a replica of an old buggy board!


    Just if you like it: Go ahead! :D

  • Of course its possible :-D


    And i'm amazed that nearly 95% or so of all the components can be bought new and only a very few need to be used


    I have decided to split up the board in squares 100*80mm so i could get started on the first one without paying.


    I then print each square on paper and place it on top of the board and use a needle to poke through the paper and check if the components are placed in the correct spot. there is stil a small margin of error but i plan to get it printed on a transparent film once all components are complete


    once each square is done i will make a new tab on the google doc and note down all components in that square.


    the first tab will then collect numbers from the others and sum them up


    it will take roughly 8 weeks just to get the components placed correctly, after that all the connections has to be made

  • I have decided to split up the board in squares 100*80mm so i could get started on the first one without paying.

    You do know that there are other PCB CAD tools which come without these silly restrictions and sometimes also without the need for payment?