Posts by JimDrew

    I have code to do this, along with full verify of the flux data but I'm still finishing up some other parts of the new firmware for the SuperCard Pro board. All of the flux and conversion handling is done inside of the SuperCard Pro board itself so that it can remain as a portable device that doesn't require a USB interface and can be controlled by anything with a serial port.

    Does anyone actually expect that the discussion taking place here, with all undoubtedly creative approaches, has any relevance for the current Indigo project? Has there been a statement from Jim about the "Commodore logo button"?

    Quote from Indiegogo Ultimate Backer

    You also want to be able to choose any type of custom keycap characters, printed with a UV printer

    Part of our perk!

    I assume that if we deliver a template, it will also be printed. Even if it is the C = logo.

    Am I right there, [user = '16401'] JimDrew [/ user]?

    No. I will not print the C = logo or any other trademarked logo.


    It's a real PLL, composed of a phase comparator and a VCO. The VCO if * of * course * sensitive to voltage fluctuations (VCO = "voltage controlled oscillator").
    With the WiFi modem, there's no way to improve the audio on an original C64 (no iComp gear involved!), There's definitely something to improve on the WiFi modem. I'm happy to make a suggestion for a circuit, but need to wait for someone to send the hardware.


    They did not discover the problem with the module on the primary side of a USB power supply. This is nothing about the conducted emussions on the 5V rail, which is what I believe is happening (all symptoms are leading to this assumption).


    Jens


    Well, if a real 8701 works perfectly with the WiModem, Jason Ranheim Promenade, and Covox Voice Master and your red board emulated 8701 does not, then I would say there is a problem with your VCO being too sensitive. I tested the emissions of the WiModem (I have a RF devices as part of my day job) and it is within spec. The only problems with audio I have seen reported were with people using an audio cable that wasn't grounded (no shield ground).

    Although CBMStuff-Wifi modem fulfills FCC approval

    Do you have a link to the documentation of the EMC measurement? Especially the Americans are so very much in the mood for a photo. I always find that very interesting, simply because you can better adjust the test setup. Where is "pics or it did not happen!" quasi law ;-)
    Jens


    Jens, you can look up the test report for the WiFi module that is used on the WiModem. You will to find the graphs and pictures. The module is well within the specs.


    So ... what customers are telling me is this ... with the original C64Reloaded board you MUST use a real 8701 in place of the "red board" and then the WiModem works perfectly. So, since the MK2 has the "red board" hardware built-in, it does not work with the WiModem at all, and there is no way to use a real 8701. I can confirm that the original C64Reloaded does not work properly with a few things that use the USER port (like the WiModem, Jason Ranheim EPROM programmer, and Covox Voice Master digitizer) * until * you use a real 8701. i am not sure what the difference is between your copy and a real 8701, but there is definitely something different enough that modern hardware, or even hardware created in the 80's, does not work with it.

    You still need to make sure that you are in ASCII mode (not PETSCII/CBM graphics mode) when you are entering your router name and password. However, with v1.7 and earlier you also had to enter AT*SSID in upper case or the router would not be found. I fixed that in v1.8, so you can now enter at*ssid MyRouter,mYpAsWoRd!

    Did you get this resolved? If the LED is yellow, it means that the router is connected and everything is fine. If it's just the ATDT command that is not working, please let me know. That would be due to a configuration error of the modem.

    Yes, I just hot glued the display in. It will come out easily should I decide to use a better mounting system.


    The amp I am using is this one:


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/301920…geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



    The speaker I am using is this one:


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…age_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



    I designed the enclosure. It's made of 1/8" plexigass, and is glued together using the proper plexiglass glue. I made all of the pieces with smoked plexi, except for the side facing the monitor which is clear. The port hole is 1.6" in diameter and the port depth needs to be .75" for tuning to ~60Hz based on qts/vas of the speaker I am using. I will 3D print the port.

    Here are some pictures of my SX-64 modded. I made a speak enclosure. I need to 3D print the port for tuning the enclosure to 60Hz - probably lower than needed, but I hate bass that is horrible. The amp is from eBay - $4 10w x 2 audio amp. I removed the pot that was on the board and I am using the pot on the control panel board. Volume works well and it is loud and clear... so loud that it could be heard above everything at CommVEx's 4000 square foot room!

    Zipcom, look at your pictures. See the light colored green stripe on the right edge of the screen (at the border) and also darker line on left side (at the border). That is what I am talking about with my Svideo output! In composite mode, I get a perfect picture - no bad color edges - perfect video except the font is not as clear as it is in Svideo.

    Well, I finished my TFT conversion. The TFT looks horrible with separate luma/chroma signals. The left and right edges of the screen are discolored. The screen looks a bit phase shifted as well. I tried the screen with another C64's luma/chroma output with the same results. Composite looks great, but split does not. I wonder if these displays are setup only for PAL input signals. I am using NTSC.


    I built a nice plexiglass enclosure for a 2.75" Superbass speaker. I tuned the enclosure for 60Hz. I am using a tiny stereo amplifier board that has a 10w per channel output. I am using only channel. It ridiculously loud and booms pretty good for what it is.


    I am going to make custom code for the PIC to use the Misc button to change the drive number and the reset button + misc button to switch ROMs, or something like that.

    Quote

    I've almost considered the trimmer in parallel rather than the "up" and "down" buttons to lay,
    then you do not 30 times press if you want to move the image by 30 pixels but can hopefully just turn as a revolution (I still remember not how fast the monitor can accept the encoder pulses). Otherwise great mass work and thanks again ZIPCOM for use !! Thank Gruss Micha


    Did you figure out a way to move the image by any number of pixels? I don't see the capability to do this, but I would like to move the display down and right.