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DodgyPLA and XCPLA are basically the same. It is more interesting to distinguish how they are programmed in each case.
You could also test NeatPLA, which is based on Dodgy, but has changed some timings: https://github.com/1c3d1v3r/neatPLA
I also have one here that I would borrow to test.
I made the neatPLA. The same timing fixes are also available for dodgyPLA and XCPLA. If you got the tools you can udate the code.
neatPLA got different layout so pins were mapped differently. Also the LDO is 3.6V instead of 3.3V.
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That's the old version no longer for sale. Haven't yet made a sales post for the new version. Price is the same.
Here's the link for the assembly instructions.
If you want new neatSRAM just PM here or at Lemon64.
https://urly.fi/28Eo
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This is how I made the SRAM look better.
I need one of this better lookiing sram (in green), where to get them ?
Sorry only got them in black 
It's called neatSRAM. Can be bought as kit or ready assembled.
I made it to look a little bit like neatPLA or neat8701.
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You can also order the LP in green:
In addition to the color, the size bothers me ... The overhang is obscured
the lettering on the board!
I know you can queue up too ...
Mfg Jood
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This is how I made the SRAM look better. The circuit is also new and works with all boards and especially with VIC-II R5 which had timing issues with some desigs.
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It's 0xdeadbeefs project so he can do what he wants with it. Good job with the 9VAC.
Just telling some my ideas since also working on 250466 board.
I'm using Altium Designer to make my schematic and layout.
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One idea with ROMs was to use 250469 style Character ROM and combined Basic+Kernal ROM. That would also save one IC spot but makes it compatible with add-ons like Swtichless JiffyDOS, SuperKernal etc.
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I checked the prices at JLCPCB. There isn't much difference between long board 2-layer price and short board 4-layer price. 4-layers would make layout so much easier and gives also better GND plane. Haven't started layout yet so that's one thing I'm considering.
I also thought about including modern SRAM or 8701 on board. I already made replacements for old boards so I will support old chips and replacements in socket instead.
One easy add-on would be the Switchless JiffyDOS circuit for switching the Kernal.
Also ESD protection to all ports.
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Here is a schematic snip. Right are inputs for chip select signals for different roms.
"Address basic" and "address char" go to ROM certain high address pins (Char to A13 and basic to A14). ROM is filled with a certain sequence with copies of basic, kernal and character rom images for the simple diode connection to work.
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Quickly browsed through this thread. I also have an improved 250466 motherboard under work. Progressing slowly since doing many other smaller projects on the side.
You can combine all Basic & Kernal & Character ROMs with a simple diode connection. No need for programmable logic. See my Switchless JiffyDOS users manual. I call it "anyROM" feature.
"Link was here but can't post it"
I'm combining the ROMs to a single DIL 28pin ROM make room for dual SID.
There was some talk about TOD. This is a circuit I made years ago.
http://pasilassila.blogspot.co…/08/5060hz-tod-clock.html
Someone hinted to use LTC6995 for TOD clock. Small SMD IC.
I also planned to move all ceramic caps to bottom side. 0805 or 1206 size is easy to solder. IMHO it makes the motherboard look cleaner.
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Don't trust old PSUs even if measured ok. Use some protection circuit. I have seen PSUs read ok and go bad as they warm up. The voltage or ripple or both can grow larger when warming up.
One recent PSU read ok and then very slowly rose the voltage. After an hour the voltage was 5.4V and my protection circuit tripped.
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One way to make pinions with a resin printer is to use castable resin. The part is printed and then placed inside gypsum. The resin is burned away and the void can be casted with metal.
One other option is the new Liqcreate Composite-X resin.
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Tried magnetic flex plate on my Saturn resin printer. So much better for large prints. Very easy to remove prints.
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Added pogo pins to the programming connector. Just had to push in. Marked ground and 3.3V pins with heat shrink tubing.
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I used these buttons:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMcj8iv
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNsUqhJ
I used 9.5mm tall switches with both. Translucent buttons required to leave a 1mm space between the button and PCB.
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plazma
were can i buy this acryl case?
Case from TFW8B and button caps from Aliexpress.
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Assembled two more KFFs.
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Soldered my second KungFu Flash. Made a drilling jig for the buttons of a PCB.
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Do you have a picture of the structure with FT232H?
Yes I have! But nothing special, just made with home remedies. That's why I built another one today ...
[attach = '243060', 'none', 'true'] [/ attach]
The pin assignment from FT232H to EasyGate1541:
[attach = '243061', 'none', 'false'] [/ attach]
And the following command line in the command prompt is used to program:
[tt] xc3sprog -c ft232h -v FILENAME.jed [/ tt]
So, I did the documentation for myself at the same time. In a few weeks I probably wouldn't have known that anymore ...8 \ |
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Here is a guide I made for neatPLA. You can change the drivers so it works well in Win10.
https://github.com/1c3d1v3r/neatPLA/tree/master/programming
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For what use?
I use a cheap FT232H board to flash CPLD chips for PLA replacement.
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I just ordered two RPi zeros last week. Cost about 10€ each with shipping.
It's supposed to work fine with slight overclock.
