My response to Freak:
The board is pretty configurable to the user's taste, so you decide what is essential and what not. IMHO everything is essential, as the FlashFloppy/Gotek experience is sooooo much better when you have an OLED screen and a rotary encoder. Note that the front buttons are useful even if you are using the rotary encoder, as they are necessary if you want to update the FlashFloppy firmware by just putting a file on your USB stick.
You can maybe leave out the SD card header if you don't plan to use it, but I think it's better to just solder it all at once so that if you later change your mind, you can just plug in the SD module. By the way I think it was a very clever idea to solder it from the top, so that it doesn't interfere with the OLED connector! I hadn't thought of this.
It's perfectly normal to have to split pin headers in smaller sizes. Generally they are bought as 40-pins and broken down as necessary. I don't even know if you can buy them in any other lenghts, but with male headers it's very easy to break them, no special instrument is needed (I use flush cutters or just pliers), so why add several items to the BOM when you can make do with one? The only exception is the 2-row one for the data connector, but I also buy these in 2x40 and break them down.
Also keep in mind that some people will prefer straight headers while others will use 90-degree ones. Some might even use female headers in some cases. In all of my projects, I try to leave as much liberty as possible to the final user, and this is why I always recommend self-building them, rather than buying them assembled.
For the speaker, it's again up to the user which one to choose. The one you soldered in is the same type I use and I think it's perfect for the purpose. Still, if someone prefers a real speaker or anything else, they can just connect it by soldering a pin header at SPK1.
About the power connector, well, it was your choice. You can solder the TE 171826-4 connector in that spot, and that's what I do. Also, you can see in the pictures above that other people use it too.
Finally, there are several tailored enclousers available for 3d-printing. If you plan to put it in an Amiga, for instance, there's basically one for every model, just search on Thingiverse.