I am able to select other ROMs from the menu, and it changes what shows in the freezer menu, but when you F5 to reset the computer, only the original MEGA65.ROM boots, no matter what. Is there some other way to activate it?
Posts by r.cade
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If you mean the tag on the bottom, here it is:
I believe I have owned at least two of these out of a dozen or so 1571's over the years, so they aren't too rare in the US.
No, does the mech. itself have any model tag? For all the other mechs, there's a manufacturer's model number known.
Nothing obvious like that, no. There is a tag on the motor just like the above photos, but that is it.
It is just an unmarked metal box top, bottom, and sides.
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r.cade Is there any badge on the drive identifying the exact model and/or S/N?
I've never seen such an Alps drive for the 1571 before, although it's mentioned in the 1571 service manual and/or CBM spare parts list, IIRC, but only with the CBM internal product number.
If you mean the tag on the bottom, here it is:
I believe I have owned at least two of these out of a dozen or so 1571's over the years, so they aren't too rare in the US.
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hello everyone
Interestingly, an ALPS mechanic appeared on Facebook in a 1571 - more by chance because it causes problems.
This looks almost identical to the Chinon that r.cade posted in the forum before.
I promised the owner I'd start a topic here and bring him in as soon as he signed up.
The problem only affects the mechanics as tested. This has to be pushed manually to start, then the engine runs normally and the drive reads properly.
He has already replaced capacitors, lubricated the drive and now, after a cross test showed that it is definitely the mechanics and not the 1571 board, wants to replace the IC on the mechanics.
He would be open to help or trade offers.
I am allowed to post the photos he took of the mechanics here:
[attach='313528','none',' true'][/attach]
Maybe someone already has a good idea where the dog is buried. He thinks it could also be the magnets from the engine. But why when it's never the problem with the other drives?
I checked and I believe I was just mistaken in my assumption this was a Chinon or clone mechanism like what is the 1541-II.
Mine is in fact identical to this photo...
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I bought something exactly like this from a seller in Australia many years ago.
It came with a nice custom case and everything...
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"Hey you kids, hold it down!"
"But it's Clyde's fault..."
Thanks!
That would make sense, as one of the guys' names on the cartoon is actually Clyde.Probably incomprehensible for any Non-American.
It was barely comprehensible, even then. I had to listen a few times.
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I must not understand exactly where you mean. In the clip above at 0:44 there is definitely no English spoken?
Oh, thanks, Peter, it was about one further above, this one here:
[External Media: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClesJ55Y__U&t=5s]It sounds like:
"Hey you kids, hold it down!"
"But it's Clyde's fault..."
It's a funny accent, like from Northeastern USA.
I love old cartoons and thought I had seen them all, but I actually have never heard of this one before. I'll have to watch it.
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Cartoon
Oh, legendär schlecht!
Was ich mich seit den 80ern Frage: Was sagen die da bei 0:44/0:45???Och, habe ich dem sofortigen Erledigen der Hausaufgaben trotzdem gerne vorgezogen.
Aber langfristig hängen geblieben ist davon genau null.Maybe one of our American friends here can try to guess what they say at 0:44. Maybe r.cade ? I understand "Hey kid, [hold/pull/put] it down! What a [??? gray? grate? great? four? fall? full?]"
I must not understand exactly where you mean. In the clip above at 0:44 there is definitely no English spoken?
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kinzi : Ah I see, it's actually logical, since there is no GND with AC voltage.
Is there now a cheap replacement for the 6526?
The C64 will work with 8520's fine "for the most part", and they are more easily available.
The TOD clock will be 24-bit binary, instead of BCD on the 6526.
It is unknown how this affects common games and applications. If they depend on the TOD, they will likely "freak out".
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I would have to write custom drive code for the 1571 to read/write from the second side, and all the accompanying changes that would be required.
I don't see a reason to do this for the very few disks that might exist. Sorry Someone else is free to do so.
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Is it? I thought Transwarp-prepared disks were up to 50x faster. Dolphin is quick for me, but not THAT quick.
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I don't believe the two are related (clock cap and bad traces) but it's possible. I've had bad traces on boards where there was no visible leaks...
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None of those should be a problem except the original XBOX. They used a capacitor to back up the clock, and they leak over time and damage the board.
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Was there ever a final (aka, I give up) source release for ATMEGA88 version?
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Display MoreI find these discussions about the speeds of the speeders a bit questionable anyway.
I am convinced that the continuous operation of a drive (especially 1541, 1541-II and 1571) in the long run
with speeders for these are not necessarily mechanics friendly. The problem is that they can adjust to the track,
which can still be corrected, but also otherwise damage could occur over time and there are not so many of them anymore.
The only speeder that largely eliminates these problems would perhaps be Turbo Trans, where an entire floppy disk page
is read into RAM and from there the files are loaded. (by the way, protecting the mechanics)
But maybe I don't see it quite right.
I don't see how it can damage the floppy drive loading faster... It doesn't stress the electronics to do it.
If anything, it's the opposite. The drive has to run longer to load slower.
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I think I did test this version and the result was less than satisfactory. If memory serves, there was a lot of noise even when nothing was playing. Flashing the Lazy Jones fix firmware solved the problem. I can, however, also find Swinkels's 20120524 firmware in the same directory of my hard drive, so I might actually have accidentally flashed that one, believing it was the test firmware you mentioned (also present in the same folder of my hard drive). When I get the chance, I'll see if I can test the 20141027 test firmware a bit more and will report back here.
I have the Swinkels 20141027 version for a while and it also solves the issue with LazyJones, and also sounds better with 180... I have not noticed any problems.
To clarify this... This firmware works on some C64's and not others. On some machines, it works perfectly and has no noise, and on others it has all kinds of noise.
I have two 250469 Rev.4 boards - one has the problem and one doesn't.
I also have two 326298 boards - one has the problem and one doesn't.
All work fine with the CK lazy patched version.
I can't really pinpoint the difference, but it must be timing somewhere.
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I have had monitors like this, and an SX64, that were left next to a speaker, or a wall in my basement, for a long time. I have a strong degauss coil, but I can never get the discoloration out. It seems permanent on mine, unfortunately.
Sometimes you can move the monitor around in my basement and it will go away or change. I have had people tell me I am crazy and the earth magnetism is not enough to affect a monitor, but here I am. I can make a video that proves otherwise.
I train myself not to notice.
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I'm not sure how a disk comes from the factory. In nibtools, I write all "0" bits to the disk on every halftrack, so no flux transitions at all. This shows up as "noise" to the 1541 because of how it works, but I have not tried to image such a disk with KF. I will do so in the next days to see which result this matches.
This is what a fresh, never used Maxell disk looks like imaged with GW and loaded up with SCP.
It looks just like the disk you show erased with KF, for comparison.
This looks also exactly the same as a disk from 'nibtools -u'.
Thsi looks also exactly the same as a disk erase with Greasweazle "erase" function.
The reason it looks like this is the AGC in the floppy drive amplifies the absense of any signal, i.e. it is just noise from the amplifier.
Note and remember that the floppy data seperator is designed for one thing only- to detect flux change. There are none here in any of the examples. The noise would never be detected as any kind of data, or interfere with it. It is "not there" like a ghost. The pattern will be different each time you read it.
I don't know what signal SCP is recording on here that would show it as different, but that is not how a new unused disk looks. I wrote a disk as all sync (nothing bit 0x11111111) and it showed up as the second attachment.
The 3rd attachment is from HxC Visual Floppy disk. Erased disks identical to the new one from the box.
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I'm not sure how a disk comes from the factory. In nibtools, I write all "0" bits to the disk on every halftrack, so no flux transitions at all. This shows up as "noise" to the 1541 because of how it works, but I have not tried to image such a disk with KF. I will do so in the next days to see which result this matches.
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If you don't fully erase a disk formatted in an 80-track drive, it will not always work properly in a 40-track drive. There is leftover data on the halftracks that is not erased, and it will confuse the 40-track heads. You will get odd problems like described in this thread.
It's best to erase the disk completely using nibwrite -u first. I think Kryoflux can also wipe the disk completely, and maybe other tools can as well (SCP or GW). A magnet will not work well enough, it just makes a mess.
